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Supply Chain Characteristics that Impact Traceability

Traceability Takeaways

  • Garment production includes multiple manufacturing and transformation nodes, such as fabric printing and dyeing; cutting, sewing, and trimming; finishing; and embellishing. Labor abuse risks can occur at any or all of these nodes. In addition, garment production includes multiple material inputs like cotton, thread and yarn, textiles, wool, silk, leather, and/or rubber that have their own risk of labor abuses in production. Traceability systems in the garment and apparel industry should be holistic and capable of providing transparency into the production of raw material inputs or components, as well as into final assembly and manufacturing. This profile focuses primarily on risks associated with production of the end product garments themselves. For more information on upstream risks in material inputs, see the SCT profiles for cotton, thread/yarn, textiles, silk fabric, leather, and rubber.
  • Garments are often produced with inputs from multiple countries, which increases the complexity and opacity of the supply chain. Traceability systems seeking to provide insight across the entire production process must be able to integrate data from multiple origins and account for differing levels of administrative capacity.
  • The prevalence of sub-contracting, especially to informal and/or home-based facilities, contributes to the opacity of global garment supply chains. Given the vulnerability of workers in these settings to forced and child labor, traceability systems should build visibility into subcontracting processes and account for these workers in subsequent due diligence efforts.

Nature of Labor Rights Risk/Vulnerable Workers

Forced Labor or Trafficking in Persons cited by U.S. Government

Child Labor cited by U.S. Government

Risk of Forced Labor or Trafficking in Persons cited by other source

Risk of Child Labor cited by other source

Documented presence of migrant workers

Documented presence of other vulnerable workers

Documented presence or significant likelihood of third-party labor recruiters

Features of Production and Supply Chain

Large numbers of dispersed, unorganized, or informal small producers or other worksites

Multiple points of aggregation, co-mingling, and/or transformation across supply chain

Complex/opaque supply chains and/or lack of vertical integration

High degree of flexibility in procurement practices of downstream entities

Distribution of Labor Risk in Various Production Areas

Scale or nature of risk varies significantly based on geographic area of production

Scale or nature of risk is strongly associated with certain types of suppliers/entities

Scale or nature of risk is present across multiple tiers or nodes of supply chain (including in associated downstream or upstream goods)

Linked Upstream and Downstream Risks

Risk in Nodes in Garments Production

Garment supply chains are complex, fragmented, and opaque55Accelerating action for a sustainable and circular garment and footwear industry: which role for transparency and traceability of value chains? UNECE, 2020, unece.org/DAM/trade/Publications/ECE_TRADE_449-AcceleratingTanspRraceabilityTextile.pdf. and production within them can span several countries across almost every continent.56Richero, Raul and Simon Ferrigno. A Background Analysis on Transparency and Traceability in the Garment Value Chain. DAI Europe, 2016, international-partnerships.ec.europa.eu/system/files/2020-07/european_commission_study_on_background_analysis_on_transparency_and_traceability_in_the_garment_value_chain.pdf. Globally, the sector employs more than 60 million workers, with most of them located in least developed and developing countries in the upstream segment of the supply chain.57Accelerating action for a sustainable and circular garment and footwear industry: which role for transparency and traceability of value chains? UNECE, 2020, unece.org/DAM/trade/Publications/ECE_TRADE_449-AcceleratingTanspRraceabilityTextile.pdf. Garment production occurs across many tiers and production steps; a fully sleeved jacket may involve 120 operations between cutting and packing alone.58Richero, Raul and Simon Ferrigno. A Background Analysis on Transparency and Traceability in the Garment Value Chain. DAI Europe, 2016, international-partnerships.ec.europa.eu/system/files/2020-07/european_commission_study_on_background_analysis_on_transparency_and_traceability_in_the_garment_value_chain.pdf.


Garments are typically made from natural or synthetic fabrics. They can also be made from blends, like cotton or polyester. This means that raw materials such as cotton, wool, and down, as well as polyester and other synthetic materials, serve as upstream inputs for the production of garments. Garment manufacturing begins with the bleaching, dyeing, and/or printing of woven or knit fabrics. Fabric is then cut, stitched, and transformed through value-added processes such as embellishment. Finally, finished products are labeled and packed.59Flawed Fabrics. The abuse of girls and women workers in the South Indian textile industry. SOMO and ICN, October 2014,  www.indianet.nl/pdf/FlawedFabrics.pdf. All of these production steps and processes may be outsourced and subcontracted multiple times, often to informal or home-based worksites.60Sreedharan, Liva and Aarti Kapoor. Sitting on pins and needles: a rapid assessment of labour conditions in Vietnam’s garment sector. Anti-Slavery International, April 2019, www.antislavery.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Pins-and-Needles-Vietnam-supply-chains-report.pdf. Garments may then be sold in domestic markets or international markets or to brands for retail. Multinational corporations often employ third-party agents that source from their large network of factories for garment production for these brands.61Industry Profile. Textile and Apparel. Responsible Sourcing Tool, www.responsiblesourcingtool.org/visualizerisk.

 

Fabric Dyeing & Printing

Cut-Make-Trim Manufacturing

Embellishment, including Subcontracted Work

Wholesale/Retail

Associated Upstream Goods with Labor Risk

Garments are produced with cotton and cottonseed.

Garments are produced with thread/yarn.

Garments are produced with textiles.

Garments are produced with embellished textiles.

Some garments are also produced with leather, the production of which has been reportedly associated with forced labor and child labor.

Associated Downstream Goods and Consumer Sectors

Textiles Apparel and Luxury Goods

Garments are primarily associated with the Textile, Apparel & Luxury Goods sector.

Top Global Countries

Articles of apparel and clothing accessories, knitted or crocheted

  1. China62List of exporters for the selected product in 2021. Product: 61 Articles of apparel and clothing accessories, knitted or crocheted. ITC Trade Map, 2021, www.trademap.org/Country_SelProduct.aspx?nvpm=1%7c%7c%7c%7c%7c61%7c%7c%7c2%7c1%7c1%7c2%7c1%7c%7c2%7c1%7c%7c1.
  2. Bangladesh
  3. Vietnam
  4. Germany
  5. Italy
  6. Turkey
  7. India
  8. Netherlands
  9. Spain
  10. Cambodia

Articles of apparel and clothing accessories, not knitted or crocheted

  1. China63List of exporters for the selected product in 2021. Product: 62 Articles of apparel and clothing accessories, not knitted or crocheted. ITC Trade Map, 2021, www.trademap.org/Country_SelProduct.aspx?nvpm=1%7c%7c%7c%7c%7c62%7c%7c%7c2%7c1%7c1%7c2%7c1%7c%7c2%7c1%7c1%7c1.
  2. Bangladesh
  3. Italy
  4. Vietnam
  5. Germany
  6. Spain
  7. Turkey
  8. India
  9. France
  10. Netherlands

Examples & Resources: Traceability Efforts Associated With Garments

Footnotes